The Drive from Jaipur to Agra was about as interesting as Interstate 70 through Kansas. Another rest break at the overpriced gift shop/restaurant only seemed to prolong the boredom. After about 6 hours, we rolled in through the seedier side of Agra. My driver made countless turns through the city on the
way to the hotel and I thought maybe something changed he was now getting paid by the mile. I couldn’t wait to get out of the car but it just kept going. After about 30 minutes, I realized that there were no unseedy sides of Agra. Finally, a turn down a side street, brought us to an unexpectedly pleasant looking hotel. Basic but clean and welcoming.
My driver checked me in and said he would meet me in the morning for a tour. I had pretty much seen enough of Agra and the Taj was just a few blocks away. It was late and too late to head back to Delhi so I agreed to meet him in the morning. He was off to wherever drivers sleep. I think it was the car but that was between him and the tour company.
I dropped my luggage and went out to stretch my legs and put together the Taj Mahal visit. The way to the Taj was a pleasant tree lined boulevard. Pretty touristy as you would expect. Very quiet though. I guess even during the major holiday travel season, it was still off season and most places were closed.
I found the ticket gate but wasn’t able to to see the Taj Mahal from the streets around it. I figured out as much as I could and decided to get dinner. A bunch of tourist restaurants west of the complex advertised rooftop views so I went into the first one. I bought a coke and Climbed 4 flights of rickety steps to the roof. A real Estate agent would describe it as an amazing peekaboo view. Underwhelming to be honest. I finished my coke and headed back down the steps and searched out another vantage point.
There were plenty but I didn’t want to have to check each one. I don’t like Coke that much. One lonely looking owner coaxed me in to try his view. It turned out to be pretty good. I ordered some
unmemorable food but enjoyed the sunset.
I headed back to the hotel since there was nothing really open and I didn’t get the feeling the Agra was the place to be roaming around after dark.
I was up and walking retracing the walk to the front gate. Anyone who has done a bit of research, knows that it is best to be in line as soon as it opens. Sunrise shines a beautiful light on the marble and the throngs of tourist don’t arrive until later in the morning. There was a bit of fog but as the sun warmed things up, the fog lifted and views became clearer. It was as good as I could have hoped for. I strolled 
the grounds for a couple of hours before I ran low on interest. That and the sun was starting to warm things up and tour busses were arriving. I wanted to be out of there before the crowds rush the place in inseparable masses of sweaty humanity.
I went back to the hotel for the free breakfast of toast and coffee. I met up with my driver one last time to say good by and give him the tip that he reminded me of each of the previous 5 days. Always stressful but I rallied and went out for a roam around the complex. I was out of rupees and burned a couple of hours looking for a working ATM. With all my new Rupees, I sat in a western style coffee shop complete with fancy coffee drinks at a high price point. but without the free refills. From there I moved on to Then there was a search for lunch before rolling back to the hotel for a rest.
So the driver was right, there isn’t anything to do in Agra once the Taj Mahal visit is over. No reason to see it a second day for sure. I had dinner and decided it was time to roll on. A cafe owner in Goa said I should try out Varanasi. And with lack of information or a plan to get there, I decided over dinner to head there the following day.
Its an overnight bus ride so I still had another day to burn. I spent it getting a new hotel since the current one was not available. I found one that was full but they had a room in a newly built anex. a few blocks away. The mattresses were still in plastic and leaning up against the wall. They fixed up a room and hooked up a heater by stripping a couple of wires and sticking into the outlet.
I spent the rest of my time drinking coffee and figuring out how to get to Varanasi. I chose a night bus. I never get good sleep on these rides but it was better than arriving in a strange city with a very tentative plan.
A Tuk Tuk took me across town to the bus stop. Not a station, but a little shop in an industrial zone. No idea what to do so I waited and hoped. A couple of hours later, the bus showed up and loaded the passengers that I was glad to see arrive as I awaited.
More Pictures:
Agra, Taj Mahal: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EZriMDCBxnPwDPad8
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